To celebrate this week's bailout fiasco I'm offering these additional points on how to save money on your vet care. Unlike Part 1 of this post (referenced below) this one addresses the needs of slightly more sophisticated owners. Enjoy!
I know some are persnickety points some vets will roll their eyes at but here’s my list anyway:
1-Ask for scripts on antibiotics: When many big-box stores will sell antibiotics for $4 a treatment cycle it seems stupid to pay three to five times as much at your vet’s place, right? Sometimes this just isn’t doable (for pet-only meds or for certain antibiotic choices) and sometimes it just ain’t worth the hassle (or the gas money) but it’s well worth a consideration.
2-Compare prices for online medications to your vet’s fees: …but remember not to buy from fly-by-night bottom-of the-barrel enterprises. It seems that increasingly, online (and even big box) outlets are willing to sell diverted, counterfeit and/or out-of-date products so stick to buying from companies you know have a reputation to maintain.
3-Less expensive bloodwork: Ask if your blood tests are less expensive at an off-site lab. Often they’ll be cheaper than the in-house variety. They’re often more accurate, anyway. The only down-side is that it typically takes longer (24-48 hours) to get results.
4-Specialist trip prep part 1: Going to a specialist for a procedure? Get your pre-operative basics done at your regular vet’s. It might sound like cheating for pennies but IV catheters and bloodwork cost about half of what they cost at the specialist’s place. The only kicker is that your own vet’s IV catheter better be placed well enough to last or else you may end up getting charged again for placement at the specialty hospital.
5-Specialist trip part 2: Know you’ll have to see the specialist for an orthopedic procedure? Does your vet plan on taking X-rays first in spite of the probability of a cruciate ligament rupture or the historical presence of hip disease? They’ll almost certainly get taken again by the picky orthopod and his digital toys. So if a trip to the specialist seems an inevitability, just wait for the surgeon to take ‘em. It’ll save you one or two C notes, for sure.
6-Refuse yearly vaccines: Find a vet who accepts the importance of an every-three-year protocol. And for those of you who choose not to vaccinate at all beyond babyhood: “Just say no”…to expensive vaccine titers—unless you need a piece of paper for official business (kennel, flights, etc.).
7-Specialist follow-ups: If you’re working with a specialist, ask if your regular vet can administer the chemo, perform follow-up testing and/or replace bandages as needed. This can save you huge bucks. Many specialists will comply—especially if they have a good rapport with your regular vet.
8-Be very careful when selecting your pet insurance plan: I tend to recommend the higher deductible insurance with cancer, genetic and orthopedic riders (these are the big ticket items you’ll encounter most frequently). Check out www.petinsurnacereview.com for ratings on these companies and their reliability when it comes to payouts. Make sure, also, that you’re getting good service when you call to set up your policy. If you don’t it’s a bad sign. Service quality usually means serious lapses elsewhere in management.
9-Choose your vaccines wisely, too: If your pet is not at risk for certain diseases, for the love of God don’t vaccinate her for them! Lyme in South Florida? Puh-lease! Feline leukemia for an exclusively indoor cat? Bordetella for a closeted dog? THINK before you leap!
10-Keep your pets indoors: ‘Nuff said on this one.
Have more? I’ll take ‘em…
Add Comment26 Comments
Asking specifically for a tech visit rather than a vet visit can save money on boosters. Since our dogs have never had vaccine reactions, we save $50 per stick by avoiding face time with the vet. Same story with blood draws for the annual heartworm tests.
B. October 3rd, 2008 11:00:00 AM
B. That's great as long as you get a full physical at some point during the year--and I mean a FULL physical exam.
Dr. Patty Khuly October 3rd, 2008 11:09:00 AM
Absolutely. I always schedule the annual physical to overlap with one of the vaccines (yesterday it was bordatella). We get to have a chat, dog gets checked from head to toe, and I feel better about going to the vet for the incidentals when I know she's familiar with how the dog looks and behaves when healthy.
B. October 3rd, 2008 11:47:00 AM
Good advice, Dr. K - I agree wholeheartedly w/your recommendations. If only I wasn't working for a practice that actively advised people to go against most of them...but then, that's the making a profit/running a business conflict in a nutshell.
Re: #3, *certain* veterinary businesses tack on a 70% mark-up for all outside laboratory testing...I recently found this out with my own pet's need for histopathology...needless to say, I was pissed, especially when I'm an employee of a *certain* business and the reference lab is about 10 minutes away from where I live. Even more pissed when I consider that my wage, despite the practice's price increases, has remained the same...
anna October 3rd, 2008 12:39:00 PM
Following on what B. said, if your pet needs any sort of regular treatment, find out if a tech can do it. One of my ferrets was on monthly Lupron shots for probably close to four years--seeing the tech for those shots rather than the vet saved us easily $300 per year.
regina October 3rd, 2008 01:01:00 PM
Quick question on pt 6 - I live in a city that requires a yearly vaccination, yet my pups' vaccination expires in 3 years. Can my vet get in trouble or refuse to treat my dogs if I insist that during their annual exam that they NOT get their shots that year? Or is there a 1- year vaccination instead of the 3-year one?
I can ask my vet this, but I thought it might be awkward or look like I was asking her to rip off the city if she cooperated with my requests.
Shasta October 3rd, 2008 01:41:00 PM
Dr. Khuly - What do you consider a "Full Physical Exam"? Enquiring minds and all that.
Elizabeth - From Nova scotia October 3rd, 2008 02:02:00 PM
Thanks for the reminder/nudge about health insurance! I just 'embraced' high-deductible catastrophic coverage for my dog Dixie.
I can't be sure, but it looks to me like Dixie is sleeping better now that she knows she's 'covered'.
Now on to get insurance for me! (sometimes I wonder if I have my priorities straight...)
Larry October 3rd, 2008 03:01:00 PM
p.s. Alex owes you a referral fee. OK, maybe a soft-sell referral, but he at least owes you lunch.
Larry October 3rd, 2008 03:16:00 PM
For me, number one is be observant! Take the pet in at the first sign of a problem or potential problem, not when it has become a crisis requiring a late night/weekend visit to the er vet hospital.
Moira October 3rd, 2008 06:53:00 PM
Shasta: you are probably talking about the rabies vaccine, right? It is a state law here that rabies vaccines need to be done for dogs and cats every three years, but I still have clients that refuse them on occasion. I tell them that I do have to inform them that it is state law for them to have the vaccines, and that the consequenses of not having it are potentially dire but I allow them to make their own choice as it is not my job to enforce the law. I DO note in the record though that the vaccine was recommended and declined by the client, even after they were advised it was required.
nysdvm October 3rd, 2008 07:43:00 PM
1. ask if certain meds are cheaper in larger dosage and/or quantity. Invest in a pill-splitter at the Dollar store. May work on such meds as soloxine, some antibiotics, ointments, etc.
2. check around with breed clubs for sponsored clinics, such as eye cerfs, etc.
3. for multiple pet household, buy Frontline in larger size, mark with idelible marker, to split for weights
4. agreed, skip the un-needed vaccine, but go for the exam and labwork. I have not had a positive stool in years w/ use of Interceptor, but "spot check" different dogs
5. invest in same urine chem strips as used by the clinic , and spot check urines for positives to confirm (100 strips, about 60-$70)
6. ask if recheck appointment is necessary if (minor) problem resolves
Barbara A. Albright/New Hampshire October 3rd, 2008 10:31:00 PM
Dr. Khuly
I also would like to know what to expect from a veterinarian when a full check-up is done. Your advice is always wonderful!
I have had check-ups which have lasted approximately three minutes, just a listen to the heart and lungs and a brief feeling over the body). For the same fee (BC has fee guides for veterinarians-sigh) you get a remarkably thorough check-up from vets like Dr. Al Longair in Duncan on Vancouver Island. Just every square inch of the body is covered. He spends between a half hour and three quarters of an hour on your animals and he throws in microscopic work, etc. without piling on a further fee. Of course he is very much in demand. We budget $1000 a month for vet fees for 14 cats, so we try to use it wisely.
My cats were on the Canadian TV programme Marketplace. http://www.cbc.ca/marketplace/cat_got_your_wallet/...
This programme gave many suggestions about saving money on medications.
Jean Martin October 4th, 2008 05:49:00 PM
Jean, The Canadian Veterinarian sounds wonderful & thorough.
Actually, in the US, years ago, exams were approximately 20-30 minutes, and would include free basics, such as slides as needed for skin problems, ear swabs. I recall thorough look overs: ears, eyes, heart & lung, abdomen palpitations, rotation of joints/spine, skin, teeth and throat/mouth, feet/pads/nails, genital/anal, basic neurological, temp---asking questions, addressing concerns both large and small---and yes, often a toenail clip----all for one basic, same fee.
What happened??
Barbara A. Albright/New Hampshire October 4th, 2008 06:19:00 PM
Hi Barbara
We are lucky to have met this vet. He's got a long record of animal welfare work on a national level here in Canada. Another good point is that he calls really late to discuss problems- frequently at 9.30 p.m. at night! I really think some vets really like animals- like Dr. Khuly clearly does.
Well worth the hour's drive!
Thanks for the list of what we should expect. Check-ups are so important, but only if done thoroughly.
Jean Martin October 4th, 2008 09:44:00 PM
I try to schedule my vet for the last appointment of the day, so we can chat. My dogs are healthy, so there isn't generally much to talk about.
Erich Riesenberg October 5th, 2008 09:33:00 AM
Oooh! The physical exam! I never thought to post on that! I'll do it later this week, if not tomorrow! Thanks for the tip.
Dr. Patty Khuly October 5th, 2008 09:58:00 AM
OK, Larry, lest I get into trouble with my other pet insurance buddies let me be clear: I do not recommend any one insurance carrier over another. Even in my practice I like my clients to make up their own minds on this--especially since the pet insurance industry is so new and competitive.
Having said that, I do invite all pet health insurance companies to parley on Dolittler via their comments. As long as they don't use the blog to hard-sell and as long as they actually contribute to the discussion (as Alex from Embrace Pet Insurance often does), everyone's welcome to network here and pick up a few clients in the bargain--helps everyone out, I think.
btw, I'm glad you've 'embraced' pet insurance. And don't be shy...let us know how it goes.
Dr. Patty Khuly October 5th, 2008 10:05:00 AM
Barbara: You ARE full of great tips, aren't you? I recommend those pill and vial-splitting techniques specifically to rescue workers. But I always show them how to do it right first. There's nothing worse than risking it by over-dosing or wasting your time (and money) under-dosing. For example: Always use a small syringe to measure the amount of liquid in the vials. Only then can you accurately measure the individual tiny doses you'll administer to each animal.
Dr. Patty Khuly October 5th, 2008 10:11:00 AM
If your pet has a condition which could become an emergency, see if it might be wise to board (even if they don't need hospitalization) for a few days just in case.
My cat Romeo tends to have cystitis flare ups and a couple times he had struvite crystals as well. I took him in last Friday morning because I was worried he may have been blocked, which is a big deal for male cats. He wasn't blocked, but he did have blood in the urine (cystitis) as well as struvites. They prescribed some meds to help with spasms and pain to keep him comfortable during the flare up. I think they would have sent him home, BUT:
If he blocked after hours, and a trip to MSU would have been required, well treating a blockage at the hospital would be expensive, but the vet said to do it at MSU would be much worse as far as cost. Not to mention (and this isn't exactly cost related but part of the issue here) I don't drive, and my mom was headed out of town, and I don't really know anybody who would be overly happy with a 2am phone call asking them to get me to MSU. So I left him there for the weekend, so that he could be there for a few days while treatment was initiated. There are interns on premises after hours. So, if he did block, he was right where he could get treatment.
Now, he didn't block, so paying the boarding fee was technically more expensive than had I taken him home. However, had it been worst case scenario, to have him cathaterized and hospitalized there could have run about $6-800. Which is in itself a big chunk of change and would already be interesting to figure out how to pay that. MSU? I think my vet said it could easily reach $2500.
So, even if you may be paying a bit more in best case scenario ($15/night to board, and he boarded for three nights), in the event of worst case scenario it might be wise to board so the pet is already there, where emergency treatment can happen without the cost of an emergency vet.
Now, if your vet doesn't have anybody on premises at night, this of course does no good if an emergency happens at night. And for all I know, an emergency hospital might not necessarily be as expensive at a vet college (not sure on that though).
MichiganPetLover October 5th, 2008 06:18:00 PM
6-Refuse yearly vaccines <----- TERRIBLE advice! Rabies and distemper vaccines are administered for the health of your pet and also to prevent the spread of disease. If we stop yearly vaccines for pets altogether we'll have outbreaks similar to the ones in California with children contracting the mumps because their idiot parents were too stubborn to vaccinate them.
I've heard from many people that they only want the rabies vaccine every 3 years, and this is acceptable in areas that require rabies vaccinations every 3 years, but in those areas a the rabies vaccine that is given is specially formulated to be a 3 year vaccine. In the areas in which a yearly vaccine is required by law, vets are giving a 1 year vaccine, so it does not last for three years!! Your pet has the potential to contract rabies, which not only means death for your beloved pet but also painful injections for you and your family members.
I am incredibly surprised to find someone in the veterinary field recommending such HORRENDOUS advice. Thanks to posts like these, veterinarians will continue to have clients come in insisting that their rabid dog "had his vaccine two years ago, he's perfectly fine."
Michelle Mazur October 5th, 2008 11:17:00 PM
Michelle Mazur - You might want to educate yourself with this article written by the
American Animal Hospital Association. It is the vaccination guidelines and it was written in 2006.
http://www.aahanet.org/PublicDocuments/VaccineGuid...
Elizabeth - From Nova Scotia October 6th, 2008 06:58:00 AM
Thanks for explaining, Elizabeth. the truth is there's still a belief out there that yearly vaccines are necessary. Despite AVMA, AAHA and AAFP guidelines to the contrary, some vets disbelieve the scientific findings.
It's sort of like denying climate change is really occurring because you happen to produce lots of greenhouse gases....
Michelle does raise a good point, though (one I've raised here before): Is it wise to tell the average Joe pet owner he doesn't need shots every year if it means he won't come in for an annual examination? I think some dentists had the same fears when we started adding fluoride to our drinking water to prevent cavities...'nuff said.
Dr. Patty Khuly October 6th, 2008 08:42:00 AM
Oh, and as to municipalities recommending 1 year versus 3 year vaccines: Those municipalities are just behind the times. If more vets spoke out against yearly vaccines those communities might finally be forced to rescind their onerous and potentially unhealthy requirements.
Dr. Patty Khuly October 6th, 2008 08:47:00 AM
While I do think Michelle is way off base and certainly not well-read in current vaccine protocols, I do see clients whose eyes light up when you tell them that Fido's rabies vaccine is good for three years...and it almost seems worthless to remind them that he still should have at least an annual health exam, fecal exam, or heartworm test...past that point, they just figure you're trying to find some way to wrangle them in when it's not necessary.
anna October 6th, 2008 12:58:00 PM
Shasta, you can CHANGE your city's ordinance from a 1 to 3 year requirement.
All the science supports this. You can find lots of information on the web to back you up, and I bet there are others who share the concerns about unnecessary and potentially harmful overvaccination. It looks like my town, which has the most retrograde vets on the planets, is about to make that change. It took ONE person really promoting it, with ONE councilmember who agreed to get the ball rolling
EmilyS October 8th, 2008 02:38:00 PM
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