Anyone who knows me even slightly well outside of my silicon and stainless steel-infused professional environments can tell you something not-so-secret about me: I love to cook.
Every day, almost without fail, I pore over online food porn, scour the contents of my pantry and refrigerator, devise menus and stop off at my local farmer’s market for another few ingredients to add to my stash. Once home, I spend at least another thirty minutes putting it all together. On weekends I’ll often engage in culinary marathons distinguished by their slow pace and punctuated by lots of food-related backyard work (goats, chickens, etc.), computer time or a three-hour kayaking trip (complete with the ideal picnic). This is my idea of fun.
Some scientists and economists say my hobbies explain why I’m not obese. They’ve counted my calories and my work output and concluded that my time in the kitchen and obsession with food makes my family healthier. Their colleagues have analyzed my interest in food and determined that I engage in this practice of cooking, foraging, backyard producing and other food-related activities because it puts me in touch with my ancestral origins in a primordially satisfying way.
Gee, and I thought I just happen to like keeping animals and eating yummy stuff.
In case you’re wondering what this has to do with veterinary medicine and why I bring it up today, you should know that Michael Pollan, of The Omnivore’s Dilemma fame, has just served up another seminal slice to his collection of writings: "Out of the Kitchen, Onto the Couch." This time it’s in the New York Times Magazine...and it’s right up my alley, despite the creepy images that accompany it (see above).
Apart from delving into the American psyche on the issue of televised, glamorized food and why we love it so much, Pollan attempts to explain why it is we love to watch food shows and yet continue down the cultural downslope that leads to culinary illiteracy and lifelong obesity. He argues convincingly that the latter two items go hand in hand, citing studies that correlate time spent in the kitchen to calories consumed.
More depressingly, he explains that the rise in TV viewership on the subject of food is more about satisfying our fundamental desire to eat and enjoy food, more about serving our baser instincts almost pornographically....and far less about learning to prepare food. This is not your mother’s Julia Child, he posits. In fact, it’s more about your brother’s take on Giada’s rack.
The worst part? There is no end in sight to this phenomenon. In spite of an almost competitive interest in backyard barbecuing, though most of us can spout off the names of at least five kitchen superstars, regardless of our time spent in front of the TV kitchen, we’re a nation of non-cookers and we’re moving further away from the real home kitchen every day.
As long as our culture continues to prefer prepared foods over those we cook “from scratch” (and here Pollan urges you not to confuse the Sandra Lee-style of “open-a-can-of-soup” cooking with the real thing) and as long as we observe the more-food-for-less mantra professionally plated by Madison Avenue, we’ll never get beyond the health, environmental and animal welfare issues that plague us.
“The path to a diet of fresher, unprocessed food, not to mention a revitalized local-food economy, passes straight through the home kitchen.”
His arguments should shock no one, and yet we continue in our collective strike against anything that takes up too much time in the kitchen. Never mind that even our children and our pets are obese as a result. Never mind that we’re losing touch with our once-rich cultural heritage in the kitchen. Never mind that every easy burger takes you one step further from protecting the animals you’d otherwise respect. Never mind that we’re spending sedentary hours in front of the television instead of enjoying a satisfying evening of comfy home-cooking in the company of our friends and family.
Needless to say, I was as depressed as Mr. Pollan seemed to be at the end of this piece. His arguments, as always, make too much damn sense.
Still, there is one light at the end of the tunnel that doesn't resemble an oncoming train headed to a feedlot: The significant trend towards “slow foodism” and anti-industrial farming. It encompasses everything from health and environmental concerns to animal welfare and the pure, unadulterated hedonism afforded by the kitchen, garden, coop and backyard stanchion.
Those of us who’ve picked up this ball with relish are more than just playing at farming and serving our hobby-God: We may believe in food as a lifestyle choice with near-religious zeal, but we also look for ways to evangelize pragmatically to the masses. In doing so, we may lambast the lesser demons embodied by television and fast food eating, but we semi-deify Martha Stewart’s vegetable garden perfectionism and free-range meat-supporting Chipotle Grill-style eateries, too.
Whatever it takes, we say. We see the light and it’s attainable by all. Which is why I’m disheartened to see one of the champions of the movement succumb to the doldrums over the state of the pop culture battlefront. (By the way, the pictures in this piece certainly didn't help my mood any.)
Sure, we may be temporarily losing the battle over hearts and minds, but it can’t last forever, we argue. There’s too much to lose: the war against poor public health and fossil fuel depletion––not to mention our very humanity when it comes to how we grow animals for food and whether we eat together at the dinner table or dine in our cars on the way home from work.
Maybe we are too fat and lazy to reverse the trend, a harrowing opinion one of Pollan’s sources espouses, but I’ll promise you this: One way or another, this ain’t over yet. We always knew it was an uphill climb. So let’s not hide our light under the bushel of one more Iron Chef champion or another kind of Rachael Ray kibble this time.
In fact, let's do something constructive: Agree to cook more...just one more day a week. Think of it as exercise for your brain, your body, your environment, your very culture...and for the animals who die to feed you, too.
Add Comment48 Comments
If I can change, there's hope for all. I am actually using the food processor I bought 10 years ago -- and never took out of the box!
Gina Spadafori August 3rd, 2009 01:27:13 PM
One of my hobbies is baking (think chocolate cupcakes, not bread). I guess that's not such a good thing for fighting obesity, though. : )
I don't watch cooking shows on tv, but my hubby and I began making a concerted effort to cook at home once we got married instead of going out to eat frequently (which we had done while dating). It's a great way to spend time together, and he's gotten really good at it. Now, instead of going out to breakfast on the weekends, we stay in & he makes homemade pancakes or waffles. It's much more relaxing than waiting to be seated at an IHOP and listening to screaming kids in the lobby.
Posey August 3rd, 2009 03:19:03 PM
I've always cooked from scratch (really from scratch) out of habit/preference/frugality/diet, until I realized how much time it was taking in an overworked grad student's schedule, without adding much enjoyment. I still get excited about ingredients (especially with good farmer's markets around), but I seldom I risk new recipes, almost never learn new skills -- it's almost more about inventory than recipes when shopping once a week and cooking every day. I don't blame my schedule for my lack of effort -- it just seems clear that this is not the pasttime that I find most inspiring, relaxing, or creativity inducing, most of the time. I can't figure out whether I should just accept that, or try harder!
I studied in Italy when I was in college, and I loved that the affordable and ubiquitous bakeries, delis, gelaterias, and family service restaurants made it possible for a busy city-dweller to eat some pretty "slow" food without having to cook it herself. It is probably a little more resource efficient as well, compared to the 50's model of every housewife in her own kitchen with her own oven, mixer, sink, etc. Maybe locally cooked food could be the next step up from locally produced food in getting America's eating back on track? Or we can all go eat at Dr. Khuly's (if only...) :)
I do live within walking distance of a grocer and a farmer's market now, so I think I'll take some inspiration from this post and do a little mid-week ingredient shopping for the rest of the summer. Shopping every day would definitely make cooking more fun!
Sarah August 3rd, 2009 03:47:59 PM
I made pie this morning with fresh wild blackberries from the vines in my backyard and a homemade pastry crust!
Meghan RAHT August 3rd, 2009 03:56:04 PM
Sarah: Yes! You can all come over to my house! I'll be at Megan's, though.
Dr. Patty Khuly August 3rd, 2009 04:00:16 PM
Sadly, I've gained weight since I started doing some actual cooking a few times a week. Turns out genuine food is more interesting than the stuff I was eating before.
Galadriel August 3rd, 2009 04:15:37 PM
I love to cook too. This is my favorite food porn site: http://photograzing.seriouseats.com/
It is associated with the seriouseats.com food blog. Both are worth your time - the photograzing site is my favorite. When you clidk on the pictures you generally get the receipe.
To make this animal related, yes, I cook for my dogs, mostly doggy biscuits of all kinds but occasionally their dinner.
Airedalelover August 3rd, 2009 04:23:45 PM
Airedalelover: There's clearly an association between those who love food and cooking and those willing to cook for their pets. Plus, if you cook a lot, there's always a small stash of leftovers or must-gos (pantry, fridge or freezer) than ends up going to feed the animals. But are our cooked-for animals less weighty? Now that's a study. We all know that pets who exercise with their people make for more sustained weight loss in both cases, but when we cook for them? Interesting.
Dr. Patty Khuly August 3rd, 2009 06:23:15 PM
This is a topic close to my heart.I have been a vegetarian in the past,then back to just locally raised meat and now I am back to just a bit of poultry and fish.I always make sure that the fish is not from Canada(to try and get them to stop clubbing seals)and is not overfished.We buy as many vegetables at our local farmer's market as possible and my formerly meat and potatoes husbandmadecarrot soup for dinner tonightthat was just fantastic.He still eats meat on the night a week that I have to stay at work on call,but his consumption has fallen sharply.If he can do it,anyone can.
Susan H August 3rd, 2009 07:59:39 PM
I grew up rather poor, so we never ate in restaurants, and take-out was a once or twice a year rarity. Every item of food that was purchased was used to its maximum benefit -- the ham dinner became ham sandwiches and then split pea soup, for example -- and we grew most of our fruits and vegetables. I watched my parents spend weekends making strawberry jam and homemade pickles, and learned the nuances of pie crust by watching my Mom baking. Both my parents cooked "fearlessly" -- they weren't afraid to make up recipes in their heads based on previous experiences and available ingredients -- and by watching them I became the same kind of cook. I can follow a recipe if I have a craving for something specific, but I'm much more likely to just look at what's in the pantry and then concoct a meal in my head. If I hadn't been around such a busy kitchen as a child, I wouldn't have the skills/knowledge/confidence that I do, no matter how many cooking shows I watched. It's sad that so many kids today are missing out on the home cooking experience, because not only are they denied access to their family food traditions, they're probably going to parent another generation of non-cooks.
And yes, I cook for my pets :) Homemade food for everybody!
Leigh-Ann August 3rd, 2009 09:46:08 PM
Smitten Kitchen is my weapon of choice... The peach and creme fraiche pie is to die for!
Megan August 4th, 2009 12:02:55 AM
I have been the grateful recipient of outdated survival food storage because people figure goats will eat anything. The fact is that rolled oats, loved by every animal I have, will bloat a goat.
Anyone have a minimalist recipe for making rolled oats into bite size bars so that I might use them as training treats with the clicker? Most of the recipes I have found add molasses or honey.
The reality is that it is unlikely that rolled oats that are CO2 purged and vacuum sealed would ever go bad, but it doesn't hurt to spread the rumor if you have hungry animals. ;-)
Bob Jones August 4th, 2009 09:05:26 AM
In a certain famous book, the animal requested for sacrifice was the best one (no blemish, provably able to sire, etc.). A show animal. (The fact that sacrifices, save for the ones to be burnt to ashes, were the BBQ for the priests, does indicate that televangelists guilting for personal gain is not new. (First Samuel's opening chapters, charming portions of Joshua.))
Now. The inference one should make is that these community service projects for personal failures should be kept to a minimum. Show animals cost money, time and effort that should not be wasted.
A person that wants to see wholesale animal destruction and get fat from it, is a televangelist, a paganistic officiant demanding to sit on his divan and have animals destroyed in front of him, without having to learn the economics or morality or creativity not having animal sacrifice on demand. The cooking shows are "novices" showing technique to the approving master.
...1000 Cows must be killed every day to ensure, I the Great lord, know that no hamburger under the light of the camera or heat lamps looses its fresh taste, lest I desire to verify the skill of my novices...
Food ethics have been around a long time. That a used kitchen is now moral proof that you are not a sluggard, takes a stab at another set of ethics, that personal a relationship with your meat is more than a systemic one.
Jason Schroeder August 4th, 2009 09:07:49 AM
Bob: You can always add eggs and use these as a binder instead of the molasses and honey. I would coat my oats in a little whole wheat flour first to ensure maximum stickiness of the egg on the oats (especially important if you're using non-quick cooking oats). Make sure to bake them in a slow oven at 250 or 300 for an hour (or less, depending on the amount of eggs). I'd use one egg per cup or two of oats--just enough to moisten and bind.
Dr. Patty Khuly August 4th, 2009 09:39:09 AM
Jason: In response, I would hasten to point out that this personal relationship makes all the difference.
Dr. Patty Khuly August 4th, 2009 09:40:58 AM
Interesting, and I have to certainly agree.......now that I eat less, and consequently weigh less, I am more obsessed with food than I when I had a major problem. I gaze into bakery windows with undeniable passion....I walk in and sniff....I wonder through markets and grocers, as if I am browsing at Tiffany's. I cook and prepare goodies, dinners and snacks constantly for anyone who will share them with me. I have become a vicarious eater, I derive pleasure from watching others enjoy what I have made.
Sally Ciereszko August 4th, 2009 09:47:58 AM
Sally: I have that same feeling when I cook for others. It's the best part of cooking for a crowd--or even just for my son or boyfriend. Watching them dig into that pasta or ask for more of my Greek-style salad (especially when an eleven year-old does it) is sooooo satisfying. And when you have workmen in your yard, baking a fresh batch of cookies and watching them raise their eyebrows with an I-can't-believe-what-just-hit-me expression is priceless, too.
Dr. Patty Khuly August 4th, 2009 11:18:04 AM
Finally read the article last night. (The photo illustrations are as good as I've ever seen!)
Interesting idea in there for a healthy way to eat: If you haven't made it, don't eat it.
I've lost 40 pounds doing something pretty similar: If it's processed, don't eat it.
Gina Spadafori August 4th, 2009 11:56:56 AM
Gina: Gawd, those pics. Sure they were edgy and cool. But so bleak. I can't get over the negativity. It's just so sad.
Dr. Patty Khuly August 4th, 2009 09:21:50 PM
As a no-television, aspiring vegan household who grows some of our own food, I think my BF and I are well on our way. We do not watch TV, and even when I had TV service, the cooking shows pretty much bored me. I'd rather DO than watch. We have a great collection of cookbooks, including a few vegan ones. With the ones that are not vegan, I find it a really fun challenge to take the recipes and adapt them to vegan dishes.
(Our cats, of course, are not vegans!)
We have a friend with MCS (multiple chemical sensitivities,) and it has opened both of our eyes to what all goes into the things we put in and on our bodies. He and I both want cleaner food AND cleaner body care items, so we are working toward that.
It feels wonderful!
Jen M. August 31st, 2009 01:42:20 PM
As a no-television, aspiring vegan household who grows some of our own food, I think my BF and I are well on our way. We do not watch TV, and even when I had TV service, the cooking shows pretty much bored me. I'd rather DO than watch. We have a great collection of cookbooks, including a few vegan ones. With the ones that are not vegan, I find it a really fun challenge to take the recipes and adapt them to vegan dishes.
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